The Khamer Rouge entered Phnom Penh in 1975 as liberators at the end of a war during which America’s B-52 bombers had devastated the country. But yet another nightmare was about to begin. The new regime, led by the shadow, Paris-educated Pol Pot, killed over 2 million Cambodians through forced labour, starvation and torture. In 1978, the Vietnamese invasion drove the Khmer Rouge into the countryside, sparking off war that lasted 13 years. Since a UN sponsored election in 1993 an uneasy peace has been holding out. Tourists are coming back, taking in the magnificent Angkor Wat, boating on the mighty Mekong. It is the ‘Detours’, however, that detain our chronicler as he takes a rough ride through Cambodia.