For a chronicler who insists on travelling without a mental flak jacket, a travel story set in Kashmir, Bosnia, Palestine or Chechnya, is indeed a daunting task. Our writer-photographer journeys back to a valley that continues to beckon us with the incredible mystique of its Sufi traditions, the extraordinary magic of its crafts and above all, its astonishing natural beauty. Of course Kashmir has its share of conflict, contradiction and irony; an integral part of its landscape today. But for the traveller seeking to return with more than picture-postcard memories, these are not deterrents. Instead, they offer new insights into a region struggling to regain an elusive peace.