HOW TO CONQUER AFGHANISTAN A Traveller’s Manual: Friendship Through the Minefield
Text and Photos: Rafeeq Ellias
From bustling chai shops to steaming hamamkhanas, from a naan maker to a wrestler turned bonesetter, our correspondent gets a very special welcome. India has an exceptional record of doing serious development work, building roads, hospitals, the administrative services in Afghanistan while keeping a distance from great power and regional machinations… until now. There are indeed many political minefields ahead. But for the present, being an Indian in Afghanistan is a passport to love, friendship and hospitality on a scale that leaves you overwhelmed.