|
Twenty-two years ago I had the good fortune to spend a summer in
the French Pyrenees. First in the town of Foix and then, in various
mountain villages populated mostly by the elderly; the youngsters
had migrated to Paris, returning with their children only for the
summer vacations. On vacation from college in America, homesick
for Bombay, I saw my grandparents in every wrinkled face. In my
mind, French peasants and old Parsis resembled each other. This
Parsi spoke no French. The French peasants spoke no English. But
nobody objected to the camera. On the contrary, they were amused
by their solitary visitor from lInde. After living an unnatural
student life in Cambridge/Boston, where there were few families,
only countless other students, life in a French village was comforting
in its daily routines, its natural rhythms. Every morning, Madame
Cassee my neighbour, who was probably close to 90, would wake up
early and hang up her laundry. Everybody (men and women in their
80s) tended their own patch of land on which they grew vegetables.
Further up the mountain, shepherds looked after their sheep in Biblical
fashion. Id wander around the peaceful cemetery, silent except
for the rustle of leaves, looking at the photographs of the deceased
on the gravestones. Curiously alive, their eyes stared back at me
over the passage of years. On market day the villagers would descend
from their mountain homes to the valley town of Foix with their
produce; flowers, vegetables, cheeses, particularly goat cheese,
the speciality of the region, sausages and poultry, both dead and
alive. Fairs were on Sundays after church in different mountain
villages. Everybody from neighbouring villages and from Foix, would
arrive in cars, vans, mopeds, tractors. An intergenerational celebration.
Children, their parents, their grandparents, their great-grandparents,
all dancing in the village square. That was 1979.
|